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A maximal dead-hangs workout MaxHangs, see the glossary here should always be the first content of the session.

Intermittent dead-hangs IntHangs and SubHangs also work better at the start of the session, unless the main content for the day is boulder, in which case the hangs will be after it, and before other climbing-based [power-]endurance methods if there are any.

This is valid for linear, nonlinear or undulating periodizations see next section. If you train 2 days per week: follow the rule set in 3. You are already familiar with the principle of progression , one of the three principles every training plan must honor with specificity and personalization ; the idea is to apply increasing, strong but not excessive stimuli, spaced enough for recovery, aiming to gain performance while avoiding injury or overtraining more correctly, non-functional overreaching.

The variable we will be tuning depends on our goals:. For more on these adaptations look at this entry. This is a staple of periodization, and I propose you use it when starting with ANY of the methods , up to the point where playing with this parameter does not yield further gains.

This approach is also recommended when restarting training after holidays, rest periods or some injuries. Some patterns and their explanation:.

We can reach up to 8 sets of MaxHangs during a 6-week cycle if we rest for about 2 weeks after. We designed our week plan and successfully completed it, what are our alternatives at this point?

There are several:. In the IntHangs methods it is common, every weeks, to alter the pause between repetitions, then the pause between sets and later the number of repetitions per set; in the long term we can change the hanging duration for each repetition.

Finally MaxHangs , where varying the intensity is the way to go; as the intensity goes up the hanging time or the margin to failure go down, also in week periods.

For such training goals we should use more rounded edges, with softer edges, compared to half-crimp for open hand training; balls or slopers of different difficulty slope and diameter and pinch blocks of different width or depth for the pinch grip workouts using dead-hangs for improving strength for this latter grip type wouldn't be recommendable except for certain climbers profile.

When we are working our endurance with the IntHangs and SubHangs methods we have two possibilities:. In other words, try to make this absolute intensity into a lighter relative load a lower percentage of our maximal strength.

This way the relative intensity is stable while the absolute intensity goes up. The rest of parameters stay the same while the margin would go from 5 to 3 seconds.

The following example shows how this translates into a change in intensity:. Those among you familiar with 3-second margins , which places you in the intermediate level group, can experiment with 2 and 1-second margins in some cycle.

The same three-second margin is harder in a second dead-hang than in a 6-second one. When the margin is too short the expected neural effects can be compromised while metabolic and structural changes are favored, in the form of hypertrophy or enhanced substrate repletion, even if we respect the recovery periods between sessions and mix them correctly with the rest of contents.

This said, there are special cases where we can skip the margin modification altogether and directly alter the dead-hang duration:.

One example:. This is the now familiar week planning; we could then switch to:. But we should not forget that even in endurance methods the rest periods must make it possible to sustain the average intensity that we want throughout the workout.

In this method we have already stated that making the rest interval length shorter is not terribly useful; the opposite is true, though, and we can rest for more than 3 minutes in the following situations:.

When deciding which method to choose for each case you first need to be familiar with the effects of the tools available.

To learn more about intermittent dead-hangs you can visit this blog post and this last one shows why it is better to start with a method were no added weight is used MED hangs if you are new to hangboarding, and when you could start with added weight MAW hangs.

In general, if we seek long-term gains , the way to obtain greater and more sustainable improvements is to periodically change the stimulus by tuning one variable or other.

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Video escalada boulder; Highballs en Hoyamoros. Video de Nalle Hukkataival en Tuzgle, la meca del boulder en Argentina.

Video escalada deportiva: Silence 9c por Adam Ondra El escalador checo Adam Ondra nuevamente hizo historia, encadenando el. Escalada Tepuy.

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Share this Post: Facebook. Video escalada boulder; Highballs en Hoyamoros. In a nutshell, they consist of frequent oscillations in intensity, with a periodicity that can go from monthly to daily.

I particularly like block periodization and use it a lot because it fits neatly with the others contents of the mesocycle and my vision of the macrocycle.

A week-long macrocycle is divided into blocks of 4 to 8 microcycles, each one aimed at some aspect of a quality, the idea being for all aspects to come together at the end of the macrocycle.

For example:. Block 2: 8 weeks of IntHangs or SubHangs to work endurance. Block 3: rest from dead-hangs if it is a competition cycle, or weeks of MaxHangs with shorter hang times to recover some maximum strength.

Generally speaking, MaxHangs allow us to gain strength via neural changes, while IntHangs improve our endurance and also have certain effect on strength possibly via hypertrophy.

MaxHangs have shown some influence on endurance as well. However, these effects depend on personal characteristics, and we will explain this now.

My research also gives some pointers regarding the length of each program:. No matter what method we are dealing with, its marginal effect decreases with time, up to the point where we plateau.

This is specially true of MaxHangs with times shorter than 10 seconds. At certain point, though, we have to realize that maintaining certain level can be considered a success ; the body does not have an unlimited ability to adapt.

The information we have provided will allow you to:. Review all the info if necessary. Smaller, occasional differences can in principle be due to normal fatigue and require just adjusting the load.

Revise your planning and do lighter workouts while you figure it out. Rest for weeks after every 4-week MaxHangs cycle or 8 weeks of IntHangs.

If your evolution feels a bit slow remember that the higher your starting level is the slower and smaller the gains will be, and vice versa.

Thank you very much for your motivation, I hope you com back for more as I follow with this series, which will feature IntHangs and SubHangs programs as well as nonlinear periodization examples where MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs will be combined.

These guides are now also available separately from the boards. You can order them now at oriol surfacesforclimbing.

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